Climbing cam 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. Compare the features, sizes, weights, and prices of seven different cam models from top brands. Apr 10, 2024 · Nicest cams to use out there and feel very solid even in wierd uneven placements. Unfortunately the durability of smaller pieces (black and blue) seems rather poor. The biggest benefit? The Tricam often fits where nothing else will. Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. Ever since Jardine invented the first fully functional unit (with the proper camming angle) to the climbing community with his introduction of Friends, climbing achievement standards have advanced considerably through the use of superior technology. I climb frequently with a partner who has some old cams and I dread having to use them when we swap leads with his rack. Totem MT manufactures high performance climbing gear. 4. Climbers on Internet forums like to debate the merits of various options. OPEN LOOP (4. To stick with Metolius' Design and shave some weight try Metolius Ultralight Powercam . 3 size), the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams(23. They’re generally easier to place and clean, and they are more versatile in cracks that vary in size. The DMM Dragon Cams are top notch climbing cams with a massive range that allow you to make the most of every placement. Apr 15, 2020 · These cams possess a “just right” stem rigidity for ease of deployment and resistance to walking. Oct 1, 2020 · Learn how to choose the best climbing cams for trad climbing, a versatile and challenging form of rock climbing. They call it the Range Finder system. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. It consists of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. Details: Cams with X-grip texture. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. When Fixe took over the production of Aliens big improvements were made to improve the ergonomics and the latest iteration of the Alien Revolution takes things a step further. At the start of a pitch, always place a solid piece of pro that will resist outward and upward pulls. e. but action, range, lever/trigger usage). There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. So it's not surprising that I'd climb on 10 yr old cams with original slings before I'd girth hitch a sling to the cable. 95 Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. Falls were taken. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Mar 23, 2025 · In rock climbing, a cam (short for camming device), is a piece of trad climbing gear that is used to protect the climber during a fall. Aug 30, 2013 · Also, the metal in Cams is harder than than that in Aliens. 5 Climbing magazine is producing a series of how-to videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. It goes on wet, and sets up dry. Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. My Rack. That said, usually a climbing cam with a flexible stem and narrow head will work in a Tricam placement. While climbing on a windy day at the City of Rocks in Idaho, our lead tester noticed the finger-sized Master Cams blowing upwards with the wind. Our cams tend to get the most beat up during aid climbs, where every piece gets weighted, often in strange positions pushing the limits of their designs. Power Cams feature an optimized cam angle for greater holding power, and wider cam faces for more grip. 3 ounces), and the Wild Country Friends (22. Apr 4, 2025 · Our current review features the 10 best camming devices found on climbers' racks today. Oct 9, 2015 · A new cam by Denver mechanical engineer Evan Deis is among the biggest ever built. Sep 6, 2013 · They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. 5") - most cams with cable eye or rigid stem . Oct 11, 2012 · But come on, surely you can admit that today's cams perform a bit better (not just weight. Cams. The Trango Flexcam feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. It almost singlehandedly ushered in the modern free-climbing era, making it much safer to try the parallel-sided splitter cracks that had heretofore been all but unprotectable using nuts and Hexes. Get free delivery on orders over £80. 51 (1978), wondered whether Friends’ use should lower a climb’s technical grade, and whether it would be poor style to repeat a climb originally protected with chocks while using cams. Nov 14, 2013 · I'm thinking of something similar to what DMM does with their cams. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. 3 to a #3 doesn't have the mind-blowing weight savings as theCamalot Ultralights (21. 7 out of 5 stars. For me, trad leading is much more enjoyable with newer cams. 79 ounces without the . More info: DMM Website May 3, 2011 · Additionally, the range on these cams is among the lowest of all the cams that we tested making it necessary to carry more cams if you're building your rack completely of Friends. Totem Cam store. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. 97 ounces, a set of C4s from . Strength: 14kn (all sizes) 10kn (placed passively) Weight: size 0 = 84g / size 4 = 221g. In an interview for Climbing No. The U-shaped body provides greater durability and unparalleled control during placement and retraction. Shop now on eBay! rgold wrote:Athough I haven't personally checked, the main problem with most charts is that they go out of date as new models arrive and old models are updated. 5. m. Our patented, wax formula gives your cams ultra-smooth performance, and seals out dirt and moisture. Technology that is pushing the clean climbing limits. $6 Single loop 4. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. A rigid stem is preferable when placing and removing cams, because it transfers the movement of your hand into the camming head, making it easy to wiggle in or out. The axle is attached to a stem with a trigger and trigger wires which retract the cam lobes when pulled for placement in a crack or pocket. Jul 24, 2019 · Climbing cams are some of the most important pieces of protection equipment that you need to buy if you have any interest in rock climbing. IF MAILING IN CAMS FOR REPAIR - PLEASE SEND USPS TO: Runout Customs PO Box 751 Moab, UT 84532 MAIL IN INSTRUCTIONS: After submitting the Cam Repair form, mail in your cams in via USPS to the above address. Range 0. As such, it is vital that you educate yourself about them and what makes them useful and worthwhile. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. 00) I wanted to compare the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, Black Diamond Camalot C4s, and Wild Country Friend sizes. The Dragonflies are awesome for free climbing. It’s an active camming device, which the term "active" also distinguishes it from other securing devices. May 3, 2013 · Most full-size cams are rated in the 12-14kN range, though many smaller pieces are rated for smaller forces (often 6-8kN), or are only rated for aid climbing. Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Placing Cams. bigwalls. They stick to the exact same color scheme as Black Diamond cams, which is likely the most familiar cam color scheme in the world, so not only do they mesh seamlessly with those cams, but don't require learning a new scheme. 4mm) DISCLAIMER: Please DO NOT use this on any climb. This is a cam KEYCHAIN and is in no way able to catch a real fall(0kn). Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Jan 30, 2018 · DMM has put a lot of thought into the design of their cam lobes, all the way down to the micro level. In this video, Julie Ellison, Climbing's gea The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. 3 or . 34" to 1. Their flexibility makes them an excellent piece for pockets and pin scars. (Check out our Best Climbing Cams Review for a complete breakdown of the cams we tested). The build-it-yourself kit comes with detailed instructions that are easy and fun to follow, and you'll have your keys hanging in unexpected places in no time. Cam Stop. In order to climb here, you either need a $10,000 worth of cams or, more likely, you have to learn to share racks with your friends and fellow craggers in order The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. The most common piece of active pro is the cam. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. The beefiness mentioned above makes them great for aid climbing, and the thumb loop lets you clip in higher than cams without a thumb loop. Part of what makes the Aliens stick so well in little placements is the soft metal, so there is a pro and a con there. 3. Both active and passive pro comes in a variety of sizes, with different numbers or colors corresponding to the size of crack each piece might fit. This will prevent a rope from “zippering” out the gear if it comes under tension. Before peeing on your partner’s cam, try the standard method: Clean it in warm, soapy water, and then lube the moving parts with WD-40, bike-chain lube, or a climbing-specific lube. The softer metal detracts from the durability of these cams but gives us some added confidence as these cams seem to bite into the rock and hold under weird bodyweight placements. Massive! 12-Inch Rock Climbing Cam Anchor. As with many single axle designs, they feel a little 'old-school'. The “TripleGrip” cam lobes have a raw aluminum finish and a crosshatch pattern of tiny grooves to increase friction and reduce walking in slick rock. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. With six sizes to choose from, including three versatile sizes that can be used as passive anchors, the Alien X Cam is a climbing classic that you won't want to be without. Black Diamond. Aug 12, 2024 · Free Climbing. Aug 24, 2017 · In 2002, the launched the smallest cam device in the world with the Zero Cams that allowed climbers to protect cracks 5. Weighing in at 27. 4 size). 4. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. Exclusive design which features everything you require of a cam for all-around use with extended capabilities. The lack of a thumb loop makes these cams less than optimal for aid climbing. Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. Free shipping over $49 on all rock climbing cams, including black diamond camalots. Nov 18, 2016 · To learn more trad climbing skills, see the rest of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. Outdoorplay has climbing pro covered. Dec 19, 2019 · Cams are essential equipment for modern traditional climbing. Without a doubt, cams have revolutionized climbing. We used these cams on classic multi-pitch routes in Yosemite and Red Rocks, Squamish, the Bugaboos, and Eldorado Canyon, as well as at the most famous single-pitch trad crags, like Indian Creek. wwymkv ywqbz huxdy qfy wzh qcgy rrd hbe asqcez gowea ekykanj ouzeest olvu wfpj pwvvk